Green Gold in the Old Part, News from Gipuzkoa

The oils from the Malaga olive mill Finca La Torre were the perfect accompaniment to the lunch served by the Gandarias restaurant

The appointment was not exactly blind, because it was with some extra virgin olive oils (EVOO) that boast, with good reason, of being among the world’s elite: those from the Malaga olive mill Finca La Torre. And, moreover, it took place in one of the most well-known and recognizable landmarks of San Sebastian’s Old Town: Gandarias Jatetxea. It was an exciting challenge for this establishment with its enthusiastic owner José Mari Agirre, always supported by his wife, Gregori Iturrioz, as well as their kitchen team, with young Borja Vaquerizo in charge. Together they would combine, as we shall see later, with notable success and in a very special menu, some of their most representative dishes (along with a surprise or two), with these olive oil jewels.

But let’s go step by step. On one hand, it’s time to introduce some references to the aforementioned olive mill. Its commercial director, Borja Adrián, who traveled expressly to the capital of Gipuzkoa for this event, informed us during lunch with great detail about this company and its distinguished products. Thus, we learned first-hand that the relationship between oil and Finca La Torre, located in Bobadilla (Malaga), about 15 minutes from Antequera, dates back no less than 200 years before Christ, when the Romans replanted it with olive trees and installed the first stone mill, which is still preserved in the estate’s gardens. And around 1260 –the year when the watchtower that gives it its name was built and still dominates the landscape on one of its hills– it was recognized as a producer of liquid gold, becoming one of the oldest known olive mills. “In 1999, the activity under organic production began, although it wasn’t until 2011 when the olive mill took a transcendental turn with the incorporation of Víctor Pérez as project director”, as explained by its commercial director.

He added, moreover, that he “arrived at Finca La Torre with the firm purpose of producing, year after year, the best virgin olive oil in the world”. And this olive mill totally prioritizes quality over profitability and practices not only organic agriculture –which implies the absence of chemical products and minimal intervention in the processes– but also biodynamic. In the words of its alma mater, “we understand our estate as a system in balance in which we respect the natural rhythms of cultivation, integrate animals to control vegetation, and even make our own compost”.

FRUITY, FRESH AND GREEN On the other hand, it is vital that the processes are extremely rigorous, advancing the harvest to October, which yields only 50% of the yield compared to later harvests, but they obtain juices that are more fruity, fresh and green, reducing the time between olive picking and processing, so that they have the oil in the tank just over an hour after harvesting the fruit.

At Finca La Torre, they only collect the amount that the mill can process in a day to take it to the mill at full speed… But let’s get to the culinary matter and talk about the Gandarias lunch with dishes in which the four varietals of EVOO they produce from the aforementioned estate intervened in some way. For the appetizer, a top-quality anchovy, a house specialty, with picudo oil (not to be confused with Picual). From this variety, very aromatic oils are obtained, characterized by their green fruity flavor with notes of green apple above all.

Afterwards, they served an apparently humble, but delicate, leek with romesco sauce and oil from the cornicabra variety that suited it perfectly. Its name refers to the curved shape of the fruit that resembles a goat’s horn, and its extra virgin olive oils are very aromatic, with fruity notes of olive and other fruits, among which apple stands out. In the mouth, herbaceous notes of olive leaf are appreciated, with a light and very pleasant bitter taste.

AN ENORMOUS DISH Equally successful, the Basque trout with guacamole and arbequina EVOO, a variety that produces a very fluid, sweet oil with almost no bitter or spicy flavors, and a very fruity aroma. All this followed by an enormous dish very representative of Gandarias: artichokes with pine nuts, accompanied by the hojiblanca varietal. Its name refers to the whitish color of the leaves and is characterized by its flavor and aroma of freshly cut grass, artichoke, and aromatic plants. Its entry in the mouth is sweet, with a light bitterness and a characteristic final spiciness. Also remarkable is the accompaniment to this dish: a urium amontillado from Jerez that paired very well with the always complicated artichokes. Some purists say they only go with water; forgive me, but I always prefer wine.

Following this, some delicious cod kokotxas al pil pil with clams, some of the best I’ve eaten of this gadoid, again with the cornicabra EVOO varietal. And the last of the proposals before dessert was an impeccable and surprising steak tartare very well seasoned, crowned with its mandatory farm egg yolk, as well as the delicate arbequina. The sweet finale, very apt: natural orange slices with chocolate in two textures and again with EVOO of the aforementioned hojiblanca variety, a recipe undoubtedly evocative of the most traditional and popular Andalusian cuisine. By the way, very well paired with the Pedro Ximenez nectar from Jerez.

All of this accompanied by a welcoming, attentive, and professional service. A great atmosphere, especially in the bar area, that never wanes. Upon leaving the premises, the words of the great poet Pablo Neruda came to mind, who in the last verses of his Ode to Oil told us such beautiful things as these: “Not only does wine sing,/ oil also sings,/ it lives within us with its ripe light/ and among the goods of the earth/ I set apart,/ oil,/ your inexhaustible peace, your green essence,/ your brimming treasure/ that descends/ from the fountains of the olive tree”.

Gastronomic critic and national Gastronomy award winner

SOURCE: https://bit.ly/3er6Slp